Hey! We’ll narrow down why your TCL TV has random shutdowns (turns off by itself or restarts) and stop the power cycling. Quick questions so we don’t guess:
• Exact TCL model + OS: TCL Roku TV, TCL Google TV, or Android TV?
• When it shuts down: while streaming Netflix/YouTube, during HDMI gaming (PS5/Xbox), or even on the home screen?
• Does it fully power off (needs remote power) or does it restart back to the TCL/Roku/Google logo?
• Any recent changes: firmware update, new soundbar (eARC), new HDMI device, power strip/surge protector, or moved outlet?
These details matter because a “TCL TV turning off randomly” can be caused by timers/CEC, a flaky HDMI handshake, overheating, or unstable power.

Thanks — with TCL Roku TV random shutdowns, the top “hidden” causes are:
• A sleep timer / power saver / inactivity setting acting like the TV is idle (even when you’re watching).
• HDMI-CEC (“device control”, “1-touch play”, “system standby”) where the PS5/soundbar sends a power command and the TV follows it.
• A firmware hiccup + app crash that looks like a shutdown (especially if you see the Roku boot logo).
• Heat/power issues (overheating, weak surge protector, loose power cord) that cause a true power cut.

We’ll do a step-by-step triage that’s safe and fast, and then if it still shuts off, we’ll use your exact model/menus to pinpoint the trigger. Some options have different names on different TCL builds, so we’ll keep it practical.

Start with two “high impact” checks that fix a large chunk of TCL TV keeps shutting off cases — but do them one at a time so we can identify what actually caused it.

Step 1 — Timers & power saver (Roku TV)
• Look for Sleep Timer and anything like Power Saver, Auto Power Off, or “turn off after inactivity”.
• If your TCL is powering off after a consistent amount of time (30/60/120 minutes), that’s a huge clue it’s timer-based.

Step 2 — HDMI-CEC power commands
• If the shutdown happens right when you switch inputs, power on the PS5, or the soundbar goes to standby, CEC is the prime suspect.
• We won’t disable everything blindly — we’ll isolate which device is sending the “standby” signal (PS5 vs soundbar vs another HDMI box).

If you tell me whether it’s usually “after X minutes” or “when HDMI devices wake/sleep”, I can guide the correct path without breaking your setup.

Good observations — that pattern screams “settings + handshake,” but we still want to rule out a true power issue.

Step 3 — Do a clean restart (not a factory reset)
• After changing timer/CEC settings, a normal restart helps the TV reload the HDMI control stack and clear weird cached states.
• If your TCL is doing “random restarts” (logo appears), a restart also helps confirm whether it’s an app/OS crash vs actual power loss.

Step 4 — Quick isolation test (this is the fastest way to spot a CEC culprit)
• Temporarily disconnect ONE HDMI device at a time (start with the soundbar or the PS5), then test for 15–20 minutes.
• If shutdowns stop with one device unplugged, we know it’s a device-control/handshake chain, not the TV “failing.”

The exact option names for CEC on TCL Roku TV vary by model/year, so if you want, open the chat and I’ll walk you through the correct menu and the least disruptive CEC configuration for your PS5 + eARC soundbar.

If it goes black and returns to the home screen without you pressing power, that’s usually a soft restart (app/OS crash) rather than the TV losing power completely — but we should still check heat and power because both can trigger shutdown protection.

Step 5 — Overheating checks (quick + safe)
• Make sure the rear vents aren’t blocked and the TV isn’t pressed tight against the wall.
• If it’s on a cabinet, remove anything trapping heat (set-top boxes, consoles) directly under the TV exhaust area.
• “Warm” is normal; “too hot to keep your hand there” is not.

Step 6 — Power stability basics
• Try the TV on a different wall outlet (temporary test). Some surge protectors/power strips cause momentary drops under load.
• Check the power cable is fully seated in the TV and not loose/wiggly.

If heat/power is contributing, the fix depends on your exact environment and whether you’re seeing full power-off vs OS reboot. That’s where a quick live chat saves a lot of trial-and-error.

Yes to both — and they’re more common than people think.

Remote / stuck power button
• A stuck or bouncing power button (remote or TV button) can look exactly like “random shutdowns.” Batteries that are weak or leaking can also cause odd behavior.
• A quick test is to remove the remote batteries for a bit and see if the TV still shuts down. (Don’t worry — you can still power it using the TV button if needed.)

Firmware + app instability
• After an OS update, some TVs get temporary app crashes (YouTube is a frequent trigger) that kick you back to home or cause a reboot.
• Low storage, corrupted cache, or a bad handshake with an HDMI device can amplify it.

I can’t responsibly tell you “flip X, Y, Z” without knowing your exact TCL Roku TV build/version and whether you’re using Power Saver/Bandwidth Saver/CEC — that’s how people end up disabling the wrong thing and breaking eARC. In chat, we can match your menu layout and do it cleanly.

Totally fair — a factory reset is the “last resort,” not the first.

Step 7 — Reduce shutdown triggers without wiping your setup
• Keep timers and auto power features predictable (if you use them at all).
• Avoid “CEC everything on” setups where the PS5, soundbar, and TV can all send power commands — that’s when you get surprise shutdowns.
• Make sure the TV firmware is current, but if the issue started immediately after an update, we want to confirm the build and symptoms before changing more settings.
• Give the TV stable power (direct outlet test, quality surge protector) and good airflow to prevent thermal shutdown protection.

If you open the chat, I’ll ask for two screenshots (settings + system info) and we can decide whether it’s a quick setting tweak, an app crash pattern, or something that needs deeper hardware-level diagnosis.

Hardware is possible, but we only go there after we separate “software restart” from “true power loss.”

Signs that lean hardware: the TV fully powers off (no home screen), clicking sounds, it only fails when bright scenes or gaming load happens, or it’s extremely heat-sensitive. Signs that lean software: you see the TCL/Roku boot screen, it returns to the home menu, and it’s triggered by specific apps or HDMI switching.

The reason we don’t guess is simple: the correct test differs by model and symptom, and doing the wrong reset or setting can hide the real clue. If you want, open the chat and we’ll run the right “non-destructive” checks first, then decide if warranty/service makes sense.

Summary: for TCL random shutdowns, first check timers/power saver, then isolate HDMI-CEC interactions (PS5/soundbar), confirm whether it’s a restart vs full power-off, and rule out heat/power strip issues. If it still shuts down, the next step is model-specific (menu names and settings vary across TCL Roku TV vs TCL Google TV). Open the chat and an expert will guide the exact steps for your TCL model without nuking your setup.