Hey! We’ll fix the TV reset not helping problem fast — and the key is this: a factory reset wipes settings, but it does not always fix issues caused by power glitches, firmware corruption, HDMI-CEC/eARC conflicts, or a Wi-Fi/DNS problem. That’s why people get stuck in a loop: “I reset it… and nothing changed.”

Quick questions so we choose the right path (and avoid repeating the same reset):
• What TV brand/model and OS: LG webOS, Samsung Tizen, Sony/Google TV, Android TV, Roku TV, etc.?
• What exactly happens after the reset: stuck on logo, keeps restarting (boot loop), black screen with backlight, “no signal,” or it turns on but apps won’t load?
• What reset did you try: “Restart” from menu, power cycle, reset to initial settings, or a hidden hard reset / recovery screen? Any PIN issues?
• What’s connected: soundbar via HDMI eARC, game console, set-top box, Roku/Fire TV/Apple TV, or a receiver? (HDMI devices can cause reboot loops via CEC.)
• Any recent change: software update, power outage, new router, new HDMI cable, moved outlets, storage almost full?

Reply with that and I’ll give you a step-by-step complete recovery checklist you can do at home.

That combo is classic: boot issues (logo → black screen / reboot loop) + network instability after reset. The reset removed your settings, but the TV can still be fighting one of these:

• Power-state glitch after an outage or quick unplug — the TV needs a true power reset (not just “restart”).
• HDMI handshake / CEC / eARC conflict (soundbar/receiver/console) that triggers reboots or black screen.
• Software/firmware issue that requires an update (or re-install) — resetting doesn’t repair damaged firmware.
• Wi-Fi/DNS problems: after a reset, the TV re-checks region/time/account, and flaky DNS/DHCP can look like “the TV is broken.”

We’ll do this in a fast ladder: (1) eliminate power/HDMI causes, (2) stabilize Wi-Fi + time/region, (3) refresh the TV software path, and only then consider deeper recovery steps.

Yes — HDMI-CEC and eARC can absolutely cause boot loops, random restarts, and “logo then black screen,” because the TV is negotiating control + audio + video at startup. Let’s do the quickest “prove it” test.

Step 1 — True power reset (fixes stuck power-state bugs)
1) Unplug the TV from the wall (not just the remote).
2) While unplugged, press and hold the TV’s physical Power button for 15–20 seconds (this drains residual power).
3) Wait 2 minutes, then plug back in and turn it on.

Step 2 — Boot test with “zero HDMI” (isolates CEC/eARC conflicts)
1) Unplug all HDMI cables (soundbar eARC, console, streaming box).
2) Turn the TV on with nothing connected and see if it still restarts or goes black.
3) If it’s stable, reconnect one device at a time (start with a simple device, save the soundbar for last).

This takes 5 minutes and tells us if the reset “didn’t help” because the real cause is HDMI/CEC, not settings.

Great — we found a real culprit. Now we’ll lock in a stable setup so the TV reset not helping story ends for good.

Step 3 — Fix HDMI-CEC/eARC without giving up your soundbar
1) On the TV: turn off SIMPLINK (HDMI-CEC) temporarily (name may vary, but it’s the HDMI device control feature). Test stability.
2) Leave the soundbar connected, but switch audio output carefully: try eARC on/off if your TV menu has that toggle. Some combos are stable with ARC but glitch with eARC.
3) If the soundbar has firmware updates (via its app), update it — a soundbar bug can look like a TV issue.
4) If you need CEC for convenience, re-enable it after stability is confirmed and keep only one “control device” if possible (sometimes multiple devices fighting for CEC causes the reboot/black screen).

Now, for the Wi-Fi won’t connect + app weirdness after reset: that’s usually a network handshake/DNS/time issue, not a reason to reset again.

You just named the biggest clues: wrong time/date and “connects but no internet.” That’s often DNS/DHCP or router security, not a broken TV.

Step 4 — Fast Wi-Fi recovery (works after factory reset)
1) On the TV: Forget network (remove saved Wi-Fi), restart the TV, then reconnect fresh.
2) Reboot the router (quick power cycle) and confirm the Wi-Fi password is correct (after reset, one wrong character = endless “can’t connect”).
3) If your router has both bands, try the other one: 2.4 GHz is more stable at distance; 5 GHz is faster but weaker through walls.
4) Check router security: if it’s set to “WPA3 only,” switch to WPA2/WPA3 mixed for compatibility (some TVs struggle on WPA3-only).
5) If the TV has manual DNS settings: set DNS to a known public DNS (this helps when ISP DNS is flaky). Then test app loading and store sign-in again.

Step 5 — Fix “apps missing” after reset (normal but easy)
After a reset, many Smart TVs show fewer apps until you complete: region, terms, account sign-in, and time sync. Once Wi-Fi is stable, sign in and let it sit for a few minutes to repopulate the content store.

Absolutely — repeating a factory reset is usually the slowest path. “Laggy after reset” often means software update pending, storage pressure, or a background process still rebuilding indexes after sign-in.

Step 6 — Make the TV fast again (without another reset)
1) Check for a software/firmware update and install it (TV updates often include stability fixes for reboots, Wi-Fi, and app crashes).
2) Remove apps you don’t use, and disable auto-start features that keep apps running in the background.
3) Power cycle once after updates (yes, again) — updates can leave services in a half-restarted state.
4) If you use an external streaming box (Roku/Fire TV/Apple TV), try it for a day: if everything is smooth there, the TV panel is fine and the issue is mainly the internal smart platform. That’s a valid “fast fix” many people use.

If you still see freezes + random restarts after we already fixed CEC/eARC and Wi-Fi, then we look at a deeper software recovery step.

Smart approach. Here’s the reset ladder I recommend when a TV is stuck on logo or a reset “didn’t help.” Do these in order:

First (fast, no data loss)
• Do a true power reset (unplug + hold power).
• Boot with all HDMI unplugged (CEC/eARC can hard-break startup).
• If the remote is acting up, replace batteries and test the TV’s physical buttons — remote pairing issues can look like a “frozen TV.”

Second (fix the common return-of-the-problem)
• Turn off HDMI-CEC/SIMPLINK temporarily and reconnect devices one-by-one.
• Verify network basics: router reboot, WPA2/WPA3 mixed, and stable DNS.

Third (only if needed)
• Update firmware. If the TV can’t update online, use the manufacturer’s USB update method (this is often the real fix when factory reset fails).

Factory reset is helpful when the settings database is corrupted, but it’s not the universal fix — you proved that already.

Good caution. On Android TV / Google TV, a recovery screen usually appears after a failed boot or update. The safest move is: don’t “explore” — follow a known-good path.

Safe rule: if you see recovery options, start with non-destructive steps (reboot/power reset). If the device is stuck in a loop and normal boot never works, then a guided recovery reset can be appropriate — but it should be done carefully and ideally with step-by-step help so you don’t wipe more than necessary.

For LG webOS you typically won’t see Android recovery, but the principle is the same: use power reset + HDMI isolation + update path before you do another full reset.

Summary: when a TV reset is not helping, it usually means the root cause isn’t “settings.” The big fixes are: do a true power reset, isolate HDMI-CEC/eARC conflicts (especially with soundbars), stabilize Wi-Fi/DNS and time/region sign-in after reset, and install the latest firmware update.

If you want, Open the chat and tell me your exact LG model + soundbar model — I’ll give you a clean “known-good” setup (CEC/eARC + audio output + network settings) so it stays stable.