Hey! We’ll narrow down why your August keeps restarting and stop the reboot loop without guessing. Quick questions (these decide the fix):
• Which model: August Wi-Fi Smart Lock (built-in Wi-Fi), August Smart Lock Pro/3rd Gen + August Connect, or a Yale Assure with a Connected by August / Yale Access module?
• What do you see during the restart: blinking LED pattern, clicking motor, “booting” sound, or it just goes dark and comes back?
• Does it restart only when you try to lock/unlock, or even when it’s idle?
• Any recent changes: battery swap, firmware update, moving Wi-Fi router/mesh, HomeKit/Alexa integration, new phone, or re-pairing in the app?
Once we know the exact scenario, we can pinpoint whether this is a power/battery sag, a connectivity loop (Bluetooth/Wi-Fi/bridge), or a calibration/alignment issue that triggers resets.

Thanks — on the August Wi-Fi Smart Lock, a restart cycle usually points to one of these buckets:
• Battery voltage dip under load (common when the motor turns the deadbolt, especially if batteries are “new” but lower quality or not seated perfectly).
• Wi-Fi handshake / cloud retry loop (lock tries to reconnect, fails, reboots its Wi-Fi stack, repeats). This often shows up as “offline” + “device unavailable.”
• Firmware mismatch after an update (lock firmware + app version + HomeKit pairing can get out of sync).
• Mechanical resistance (tight deadbolt, misaligned strike plate) causing a stall; some locks will reset after repeated strain.

The “quick fixes” are different depending on which bucket you’re in — so we’ll do a couple of safe checks that don’t require a full reset or losing your setup.

Perfect — the combo of mesh Wi-Fi + “stiff lock” can definitely trigger symptoms that look like random reboots. Let’s do two checks that don’t “wipe” anything:

Check A — Power stability (without exposing the full fix)
• Confirm the battery pack is fully seated and the cover closes snugly (a tiny gap can cause intermittent contact).
• If the lock restarts mostly during locking/unlocking, that’s a strong hint of a power dip under motor load — especially with certain CR123A/AA batches.

Check B — Mechanical strain
• Try turning the deadbolt by hand with the door open vs closed. If it’s noticeably harder when closed, the deadbolt/strike alignment can make the motor work harder — which can look like “August keeps restarting when I lock the door.”

Next, we’ll check whether your lock is bouncing between mesh nodes or bands (2.4 GHz behavior matters for smart locks). I’ll guide you based on the exact router/mesh model.

Great question — and you *don’t* want to rush into a factory reset because it can create extra issues (new HomeKit code flow, guest keys, automations, etc.).

Here’s how to decide the right direction fast (without nuking your setup):
• If the lock is stable on Bluetooth near the door but flips offline when you leave the house, it’s often a Wi-Fi / router / mesh steering issue (smart lock Wi-Fi behavior is pickier than phones).
• If it restarts when the motor is working and the door is closed, that points to calibration/alignment or resistance — and the “fix” is not the same as a network fix.
• If HomeKit shows No Response while the August app still works, the issue can be in the HomeKit pairing layer (especially after app/firmware updates).

In chat, we’ll identify which layer is failing by checking one or two specific indicators (LED behavior + app status + connection path). That prevents unnecessary resets.

If you’re seeing both August Wi-Fi Smart Lock restarts AND August Connect offline symptoms on the network, yes — a router/mesh setting can be the common thread.

With many mesh systems (including Eero), smart home gear can struggle with:
• Band steering and “client steering” (devices roam between nodes and the connection flaps).
• Automatic channel changes and Wi-Fi optimization (good for phones, not always good for IoT).
• Isolation/guest network rules (bridge/lock may look “online” but can’t reach the cloud consistently).

I don’t want to dump generic router steps here because the right changes depend on how your Eero is set up (bridge mode vs router mode, node placement, WPA mode, and whether the lock is on the main SSID). In live chat we’ll map your lock + Connect to the exact Wi-Fi path and apply the minimum changes.

The “false low battery” style pop-ups are actually a useful clue. Many cases of August smart lock rebooting are not a dead lock — they’re either:
• A momentary voltage drop when the motor hits resistance (door closed + tight bolt), which can trigger a reboot and also trigger a low-battery flag.
• A firmware/app state where the lock reports inconsistent battery telemetry after an update or after a reconnect cycle.

Good news: a true “bricked” lock is much rarer than a power/contact + alignment + network combination that looks scary. What we need next is your exact model generation + battery type + whether the lock restarts even when you don’t touch it.

If you want, paste the model name from the app and the battery type you installed (CR123A vs AA pack) — that changes the diagnostic path.

Overnight “offline then back” plus Alexa failures points more toward a Wi-Fi stability or cloud reconnect loop than purely mechanical — but we still can’t ignore the door resistance (because it can trigger restarts during lock cycles).

Related issues we’ll account for (these show up in logs/symptoms):
• August lock disconnects from Wi-Fi after router optimization or DHCP renewals.
• Bluetooth works, Wi-Fi remote access fails (common when mesh nodes move clients).
• HomeKit “No Response” even though the August app intermittently works.
• August Connect bridge offline on other doors — confirms network-level instability.

The fastest way to fix this is to identify the “trigger” (battery/contact, alignment load, Wi-Fi roam, or firmware state) and apply one targeted change — not a full reset roulette. If you open the chat, we can walk through that decision tree in minutes.

You’re thinking about the right risks. A repeating restart cycle can increase battery drain and cause intermittent failures (especially for automations / voice assistants). But you can do a couple of safe, reversible checks that won’t wipe guest access or require re-inviting users:

• Confirm the lock can complete a full lock/unlock cycle with the door open and that the thumbturn isn’t binding.
• Keep your phone near the lock and test Bluetooth control vs remote control (this tells us whether Wi-Fi is the weak link).
• If you have a mesh node very close to the door, note whether the lock is likely roaming between nodes overnight.

I’m intentionally not listing the “hard reset / re-pair” steps here because doing them in the wrong order can break HomeKit/Alexa links and waste time. In live chat we’ll confirm the right path for your exact setup first, then do only what’s needed.

Perfect. Summary: when an August Smart Lock keeps restarting, the root cause is usually one of four layers: battery/contact (voltage dip), door resistance/alignment (motor strain), Wi-Fi/mesh/bridge instability (reconnect loop), or firmware/app pairing state (HomeKit/Alexa conflicts). Open the chat and we’ll identify the exact trigger in a few targeted checks — without unnecessary resets.